This past Tuesday was a bright, sunny autumn day, and I had no appointments scheduled, so I said to Nancy, “A long walk down the coast of Rye Beach, or do we head up North and find a mountain to climb?” We picked the latter, hopped in the car, and headed up I-93 to Mount Jefferson. The mountain is the third highest in the state at 5,712 feet. However, it has the least amount of distance to climb of any of the big boys in the Whites if you take the Caps Ridge Trail. Because of time we took the easy route by taking Jefferson Notch Road by car from Bretton Woods to the base of the Caps Ridge Trail, which starts at 3,009 feet. This gravel scenic road follows a beautiful cascading brook with waterfalls and is the highest point of a public road in New Hampshire. That’s why it’s a shorter hike, roughly 2,700 vertical feet to the summit from the base start.
The climb starts out gradual, and when it reaches a massive boulder overlook, it starts its steep scramble up to the “caps,” which are 3 distinct pinnacles of ledge very steep and difficult to climb. You eventually reach all the rocks with little vegetation, a pretty surreal setting. We did not go to the top after my second knee replacement (on one knee). I figured I’d do one more hike before hitting the top. The smoke and whistle of the Cog Railroad on Mount Washington was invigorating to see.
What a great state we live in New Hampshire, where you can escape to almost 800,000 acres of White Mountain National Forest. Our forefathers were visionaries back in 1914 when they bought 7,000 acres for $13/acre, and they were smart to keep adding to it. There are numerous mountains in the Whites besides Mount Jefferson. In fact, there are 48 4,000 footers, much more than any state in New England. Vermont has only 5 peaks over 4,000 feet in elevation, and Maine has only 14 peaks over 4,000 feet in elevation.
When you enter the Whites and immerse yourself in the rich northern mixed forests, you immediately escape all of the concerns and stresses we deal with on a daily basis. The lush and mysterious boreal zone, the majestic conifers, stunted fir, moss-covered tree stumps, and balsams/spruces rekindle the spirit, nature’s way of healing one’s soul. Rock by rock, root by root New Hampshire’s trails are rugged and not as manicured as out West and in Switzerland.
New Hampshire, as the 5th smallest of the 50 states, packs a lot of punch when it comes to its mountains and spectacular foliage season. Mount Washington, at 6,288 feet, is the highest peak in the Northeastern United States. It’s a very tough climb especially when you start climbing Tuckerman’s Ravine and start climbing the “Rock Pile.” I can remember climbing up to Tuckerman’s Ravine with Nancy, my son Chris, and his friend Patrick when they were 8 years old. During the spring skiing season, they carried plastic sleds up with them and flew down the slushy trail into streams on the way down, soaking wet and laughing.
I can remember other hikes to the summit of Mount Washington with other friends always complaining about the “Rock Pile,” the large loose rocks that make up the summit. Hiking to the top of Mount Washington is equivalent to walking up 400 flights of stairs or climbing New York City’s Empire State Building three times. That’s why I’m not anxious to climb it in the near future; the variable that can complicate matters is called weather.
Everyone who lives in New Hampshire has their favorite hikes, and thousands of hikers aim to conquer the legendary 48 4,000-footers on these rugged peaks. Most of us will stick to a number of favorite hikes we can conquer in a shorter hike.
West Rattlesnake
Is a very popular short hike of only 1.9 miles. However, it offers the finest view of Squam Lake and Lake Winnipesaukee in the distance with very little effort. It is also a great spot for a picnic. This is probably the most popular hike in the Lakes Region.
Mount Major
In Alton offers both brook and main trail loop. The distance is almost 4 miles, with an elevation gain of 1,151 feet. This is a moderate day hike with stunning views of Lake Winnipesaukee; however, this time of year, on a weekend, you will see crowded conditions with lots of cards extending down the highway.
Welch-Dickey Loop Trail
Is located in Campton on the way to Waterville Valley. I’ve climbed these two more than any others. This loop trail gets a little challenging near the top because it has a steep wall of flat granite as you approach the 2,605-foot elevation—beautiful tranquil views as you get above the treeline quickly because a large fire in 1820 burned 3,500 acres on the southern ridges exposing the massive granite landscape. The large bowl descending Mount Dicky is the best place to view nature’s kaleidoscope of colors this time of year, and the Mad River at the base is the perfect spot to cool off in its crystal-clear waters.
The Franconia Ridge Loop Trail
Is one of the most iconic hikes in the East. National Graphics ranked Mount Lafayette as one of the world’s best hikes. It encompasses three peaks along an exposed narrow ridge above the timberline, with the tallest peak at 5,260 feet. The Falling Water Trail is my favorite long hike. It’s very exposed to rough weather, but on a brilliant day, it’s a 10/10. But with my knee recovery, it’s not in the cards for this year.
The Flume Gorge
Located in Franconia Notch, is a great place to bring the little kids for a quick adventure; only 2 miles, it’s a jaw-dropping cool natural phenomenon along a river with cascading waterfalls with a boardwalk along 100-foot high granite walls. After the hike, head across the highway to the Basin at Franconia Notch, a huge granite pothole beneath a waterfall in the Pemigewasset River.
Mount Willard Trail
Is an easy-to-moderate trail near Bretton Woods in the gorgeous Crawford Notch Area. It takes almost two hours to go up and back, but it’s an easy trail with insane views of Crawford Notch. The Crawford Notch Railroad is a neat visit for kids and history buffs.
Mount Chocorua
In Albany, on the way to North Conway, is one of the most photographed mountains in the country. With Chocorua Lake at its base, it is 3,480 feet high. The distinct rocky summit is the result of forest fires in the 19th century. The top of the mountain is steep with ledgy sections and can be dangerous when it gets wet or glazed over with ice.
Artist Bluff Trail
If you are up in Franconia Notch with the kids, this is a great short hike up to Bald Mountain. It’s only 1.5 miles and is very moderate. The views of Echo Lake and Cannon Mountain are rewarding, considering the short distance. After the hike, there is a great place to have a picnic on the beach of Echo Lake. If you’re looking for a demanding hike, Cannon Mountain is right next door.
Belknap Range Trails
What’s nice is that it’s right in our backyard, and there’s a multitude of trails to explore. Mount Rowe at 1,690 feet, Gunstock Mountain at 2,250 feet, Belknap Mountain at 2,382 feet, and Piper Mountain at 2,044 feet provide lots of challenges with excellent views and less traffic congestion. Great for morning or afternoon hikes.
There are hundreds of other trails throughout the Granite State to explore. Keep in mind New Hampshire is the second most forested state in the country (82% of the state is forested, about 4,726,871 acres of forest land!) Like we see every fall you can expect lots of tourists visiting our colorful state. The New Hampshire Division of Travel and Tourism is forecasting 3.7 million people who will visit New Hampshire this fall, and spending will reach $1.8 billion! Many of them will be up in our beautiful White Mountains, exploring the peaks and radiant colors…life is good!
This article was written by Frank Roche. Frank is president of Roche Realty Group in Meredith, NH, and can be reached at/ (603) 279-7046. Please feel free to visit www.rocherealty.com to learn more about the Lakes Region and its real estate market.
